Draw the room from above. Label each wall A, B, C… going clockwise, mark every window and door opening, note which way doors swing, and put a dot at each outlet, the sink and the range. You are not drawing to scale — you are making a place to hang every number below.
Measure each wall corner to corner at three heights: near the floor, at counter height, and up high. Walls bow — the cabinets must clear the tightest point, so circle and carry the smallest reading.
| Wall | Top in | Middle in | Bottom in | Use smallest in |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wall A | ||||
| Wall B | ||||
| Wall C | ||||
| Wall D | ||||
| Wall E |
Measure the ceiling height in a couple of corners. Then check each inside corner for square with the diagonal test: mark 3″ out along one wall and 4″ out along the other, and measure between the marks — a true 90° corner reads 5″. Off by much? Plan a scribed filler on that side.
| Corner (which two walls) | 3-4-5 reading in | Square? y / n | Filler side & note |
|---|---|---|---|
For each opening, measure the rough width and height, and how high the sill sits off the finished floor — that decides what fits beneath a window and how tall an upper run can be.
| Opening | Width in | Height in | Sill off floor in | Swing / notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Tick each one you have and jot its location — these decide where the sink, range and fridge can live. Anything under pressure or on 240 volts is a licensed-trade job.
Printed for reference. If your numbers fight these, note it now — it is far cheaper to solve on paper than on the wall.
Numbers in hand? Turn them into a 3D plan at flipkitchen.ca →
Tip — fill this in on screen, then Print / Save as PDF. Or print it blank and take it to the kitchen.